Day 7 ~ Out of the Wild!

                                             Friday 8/29/14

We have to return the camper van tomorrow in Wasilla by 11am so don't want to be too far from Wasilla. After the very rainy week, we decided to spend the last night in a motel ...guess we will fish our way down the Parks Highway and then  we'll head for the Roadside Inn where we started our first night in Alaska! Looking forward to a hot shower, (and a hair dryer!!) maybe doing some laundry, rearranging our gear and also straightening up and cleaning the camper van. With all the rain , it did get a bit messy. 
  It actually was not raining today! Hurray!!  Was a pretty laid back day. 

     There are bike and walking paths on the sides of the Parks Highway. (Reminded me of the TOBIE Trail in Old Forge on a much larger scale!) We did not see it getting a lot of use but did see some people riding horses. Trailing by and behind them were 3 dogs and another horse. The horse was just following along. 


Day 8 The Harwoods Arrive ~ Anchorage

                                                  Saturday 8/30/14

Dropped off the camper van and shuttled back to Anchorage with a couple from Germany.  You guessed it..the rain has stopped! In passing the owner said we were at the 'older' end of people renting camper vans, most people our age go for the motor homes. Their camper vans are usually rented by the 20-30 year olds! I am glad we were able to do this part of the trip this way ( still young at heart!) as it got us off the beaten path but I imagine we would want a few more 'comforts of home' in the future! Yup, we're getting old!
 The shuttle driver was one of the owners  (and the nephew of the shuttle driver who picked us up at the airport) Originally from New Jersey, he was stationed in Alaska while in the service, after leaving the service, he went to school in Virginia but returned to Alaska. His ex-wife  lasted in  Alaska just about a year. She gave him an ultimatum: Alaska or her. She now lives in the lower 48 and he still lives in Alaska. He currently works for ConocoPhillips  on a two week rotation in the the Colville River Unit. Referred to as Alpine, it is located in the Colville River Delta on Alaska’s Western North Slope, eight miles north of the Inupiat village of Nuiqsut and 50 miles west of Prudhoe Bay. It is the site of the 429-million-barrel Alpine oil field. Alpine is the fifth largest oil discovery on the North Slope and the first on Native-owned lands. Production started in late 2001.  The relationship with the community of Nuiqsut is such that the oil company using the land, considered to be the property of the native Nuiqsut residents (Inupiat Eskimos), pay dividends to residents in exchange for use of the land. For many native residents the dividends are the primary, or only, source of income.  Nuiqsut has a population of 400.  Alpine and Nuiqsut have  no permanent road connecting it to other North Slope infrastructure. Air travel provides the only year-round access.  Nuiqsut is accessible during the winter via an ice road and  was featured in a season four episode of the History television channel series Ice Road Truckers, when a convoy of truckers delivered supplies to the village. In the winter an ice road is also built to Alpine to move in supplies for the rest of the operating year. 
   There are about 500 people working in Alpine. In addition to working two weeks on and two weeks off, there are two 12 hours shifts  and you share a room (and a bed!) in the Dormitories  with someone working the opposite shift.  You have your own sheets or sleeping bag in your closet which you bring out when your shift ends. And on your 2 weeks off , there are 2 other people sharing that room and bed!
              
The Harwoods have arrived!!
             We were dropped off at Midnight Sun Car Rental , picked up a mini-van (Thank heavens it was a Dodge! We never would have heard the end of it ...Terry is a mechanic at a Dodge Chrysler Jeep dealership in Rochester NY)  Then off to pick up Kim and Terry at the airport!
Lunch at the Peanut Farm
 
  Everyone was hungry! We had a nice lunch at the Peanut Farm on the deck overlooking  Campbell Creek. The Harwoods broke the weather curse! It was sunny, warm and beautiful.                          

After lunch, we met up with Kim and Terry's niece Diana and kids Kean and Eli at Kincaid Park. (Diana's husband  Russ, Terry's nephew, was off on his first day of caribou hunting at  Lake Louise..not sure when we will meet up with him since we leave for Seward on Monday.) Kincaid Park is a 1,516 acre  municipal park. The park is bounded on the south by Turnagain Arm, on the west by Knik Arm, and on the north by Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport.    We hiked one of the many trails in search of a moose for Kim! We did not see a moose but the scenery was gorgeous. We had a great time, especially with Kean,4 years old, who informed us his name was Tomato Soup! Such energy. . . we had a hard time keeping up with him!
Looking across the Cook Inlet at Fire Island Windfarm. Those are Mountains in the background, not clouds!


Anchorage is Alaska's most populous city and contains more than 40 percent (300,000) of the state's total population; among the 50 states, only New York has a higher percentage of residents who live in its most populous city.

After getting settled in at Creekwood Motel, we thought we might find a place for some munchies and a drink.  The clerk at the motel suggested Moose's Tooth Pub and Pizzeria. (named after Moose's Tooth, a rock peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Mount McKinley) Since this place was also recommended to me by Chelsea Hanford that's where we headed! (Chelsea is from Old Forge and has spent 2 years teaching in the remote Alaskan Village of Nondalton. With a population of 164, it is located 225 miles southwest of Anchorage. There is no road access but the community is reached by private air service from King Salmon, Dillingham and Anchorage.)  The place was packed!!  We decided not to wait and  ventured further.  We found a log cabin neighborhood pub named "Reilly's" that looked inviting. Terry introduced Mike to "Smithwicks", an Irish  red ale. Kim and Terry's daughter Meg makes her own craft beers and Terry has become a beer connoisseur! The bartender/owner Jeanne was very friendly and welcoming. 

            
   

Day 9 Anchorage continued

                                                 Sunday 9/1/2014

New Church built in 1962
Our plans are to stay in Anchorage for another night before heading to Seward early Monday morning on the train. This morning we are off for a hike to Thunderbird Falls and Eklutna Historical Park to see the Spirit Houses, old log Russian Orthodox Church,and new Orthodox Church.  It's about a 30 minute drive north of Anchorage. The old St. Nicholas church was           
Old St. Nicholas Church
constructed in Knik around 1870   although it may have been done as early as 1830. It was moved in around 1900 to Eklutna where it was actively used until it was replaced by the new church. It  is the oldest standing building in the greater Anchorage area. It is kept up for historical purposes and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
How's this for a Burial  Monument!

The interior of Alaska is home to the Athabaskan Native Peoples. Specific to the Eklutna area are the Danaina or Tanaina, Athabaskans. These colorful spirit houses are a uniquely Athabaskan tradition; according to cultural beliefs. Spirit houses were built by the family after the person’s death. A wonderful and unique mix of this native tradition with the practices and beliefs of Orthodox Christianity can be seen in the cemetery. The graves of the Athabaskan people are marked not only with their traditional spirit houses, but also with an Orthodox Christian Cross. There are also graves marked only with crosses, honoring the resting places of the Orthodox non- native members of the church.  

   Next up on our itinerary is Eklutna Lake,  just a short distance further on a twisty turny road (other than the main highways, there are a lot of twisty turny roads that climb up the mountains!) Alaska doesn't believe in guardrails! On the road in, Kim got to see her first moose! A bull moose, we weren't able to get his picture but he was pretty darn big! 


Eklutna Lake, the largest lake in the Chugach State Park, is the City of Anchorage’s Reservoir. 
Glacier Fed Eklutna Lake
Terry and Kim
There are no motors allowed on the 7 mile long, 200 feet deep glacier and fresh stream fed lake, since it's Anchorages main source for drinking water!  Eklutna Lake also provides hydroelectric power. Anchorage Municipal Light and Power  and two other power companies own all of the water in the lake.  Eklutna Glacier which feeds the lake is shrinking,like most Alaska glaciers. A photo taken in  1915, the year after Anchorage was founded, showed the glacier’s terminus jutting from the gorge. By comparison, a photo in 2010 showed the glacier had receded substantially, more than 1-1/2 miles.  
Eklutna Glacier 1915



Eklutna Glacier 2010





Day 9 continued Thunderbird Falls

                                            Sunday 9/1/2014





    In  Chugach State Park  is  200 foot high Thunderbird Falls. (Chugach  [pronounced CHEW-gatch] is the tribal name for the indigenous people who once inhabited the upper cook inlet region. The park, encompassing 495,000 acres, is one of the four largest state parks in the United States) We met up with Russ and Diana Beck and kids (Russ had gotten  his caribou within hours the first day at Lake Louise and returned home to Anchorage on Saturday night!) for a 1 mile hike in a birch forest on the steep hillside overhanging Eklutna Canyon. (and did I mention the sun was out and it was a gorgeous day? yeah. . . after all that rain we sure were enjoying the good weather).



Back in Anchorage we went to the Fancy Moose ( in the Millennium Hotel) for lunch on the deck overlooking Lake Hood. Lake Hood is the world's busiest seaplane base, handling an average of 190 flights per day. It is located on Lakes Hood and Spenard, next to Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, three miles from downtown Anchorage. Almost every house in this area has their own floatplane parked in the yard. Was delightful to sit on the deck and soak up the sunshine and sights. Seaplanes taking off and landing every few minutes.  





 Russ and Diana had us over to their house for a delicious dinner of fresh caribou back-straps, salmon and reindeer sausage.  Doesn't get any better than that!
                                                      We sure did pack a lot in today, didn't we!



Day 10: The Alaska Railroad to Seward


                                               Monday 9/1/2014

Looking good for 6:45 in the morning!
The view heading south from Anchorage
Spencer Glacier
View from the train!
Up early to catch the 6:30 a.m.  Alaska Railroad Coastal Classic Train. The rail route travels south of Anchorage along the Turnagain Arm then rises through the Kenai Peninsula's Turnagain and Moose Passes before arriving in the seaside town of Seward. The train travels roughly 120 miles in each direction and takes about four hours one-way. We'll arrive just in time for our glacier cruise into the Kenai Fjord National Park!  Was a wonderful day, and the scenery was over the top!  We opted for a train ride to Seward rather than driving as the train parallels the road for a while but then cuts through the mountains and close to the glaciers giving you views you can’t get from a car. Also meant all of us could see the sights rather than someone having to concentrate on driving.
you can see the chunks of ice in Spencer lake from Spencer Glacier








Placer River Trail Bridge...at the Whistle Stop !




The train goes through a series of five tunnels high above the Placer
River Gorge.

...I took this photo from the train..pretty steep !








Day 10 Continues! Glacier Cruise Monday 9/1/2014


Seward Boat Harbor
We arrived in Seward around 11:30. A shuttle van was waiting at the train station to take us to  the Major Marine Office in the small boat harbor.  They kindly checked our overnight luggage and we boarded the boat for a 6 hour Glacier/Wildlife Tour in the Kenai Fjords National Park. Nearly 40 glaciers flow from the Harding Icefield,one of four remaining icefields in the United States and the largest icefield contained entirely within the United States. The icefield including the glaciers  measures in at over 1,100 square miles. The icefield itself receives over 400 inches of snow each year. Our tour aboard the Spirit of Adventure traveled approximately 120 miles roundtrip through Resurrection Bay into the Kenai Fjords National Park. We continue out around Cape Aialik (pronounced “I-al-ik), into the Aialik Bay, to view Holgate Glacier.                                                      
Is that Glacier Ice in the drinks?
             

Humpback Whale!
Bird Rookery on
 Chiswell Islands
 in the
 Resurrection Bay
                                                                                                                                    

                                                                            
“Killer whales” or Orcas
 are actually quite friendly and
often inquisitive
 about humans.
This group of “resident killer whales”
 feeds entirely on fish.Only “transient killer whales”
 eat marine mammals.
No wild killer whale has ever hurt a human being.



Holgate Glacier is a tidewater glacier. Glaciers form because snowfall in the high mountains exceeds snowmelt. It's a place high in the mountains that catches a vast amount of falling snow every year. A place so high and so cold that none of the snow melts even in the summer. Whatever precipitation that falls over the course of the year, falls in the form of snow. Over time, that snow pack builds. The weight of the snowflakes in the upper layers of the snow pack presses down deforming the snowflakes beneath. The snowflakes in the pack first change to granular snow – round ice grains – and eventually morph into solid ice. The ice crystals form slowly under pressure and individual crystals can grow to be the size of a football. Air trapped between the snowflakes is also frozen into the ice at pressure. Ice near the bottom of the glacier is under tremendous pressure, which allows it to flow almost like plastic over the bedrock beneath. Friction between the glacier and the bedrock produces meltwater which further lubricates the bedrock allowing the ice to slide.

If a glacier is fed by enough snow to flow out of the mountains and down to the sea, it is called a "tidewater" glacier.  As water undermines some ice fronts, great blocks of ice up to 200 feet high break loose and crash into the water.

                      
Glacial Waterfalls in
 Holgate Arm,
 Aialik Bay
You can see how much the
glacier has receded .
Top picture taken in 1909 .
Bottom taken in 2004.                       
Holgate Glacier
      
It gets windier and colder the closer you
get to the glacier!



Look closely and find the 2 story
cruise ships in the photo's !
 Yup , that's a lot of ice!
 The perspective is very strange. Standing on the deck of the boat it feels as if you could almost reach out and touch the glacier. Then the captain tells you that in fact it is over a  half mile away.

Little Holgate Glacier, no longer a Tidal glacier as it's terminus
 has receded and it no longer reaches the sea.
Holgate Glacier is over a mile wide!
                                                 
Heading back to port after a glorious day!


Back in Seward, we got a shuttle to the Best Western Edgewater Hotel. It is located close to downtown and after getting settled in we walked around the Waterfront Park. Many people shore fishing and the silver salmon were literally jumping out of the water teasing Mike!  Checked out  downtown area, the Library and the Seward Brewing Company, too! ( Well we had to go there so Terry could get a shirt for his daughter!)  To bed early so we'll be rested for our kayak trip in the am!

 
The metal siding on the Library is made of stainless steel and the color is added with a special process that’s etched on to the metal which creates beautiful variations and texture.
    

 


                                    And what a view from
                            the town playground!